As far as most major cities go in a country, Belize City moves at
pretty slow pace but even that seems like a rushed affair in comparison
to the laid back mentality adopted on the island of Caye Caulker,
Belize's backpacking island mecca. With no cars and only golf buggies
and bikes to get around, it's a relaxing place which holds true to it's
mantra of 'Go Slow'. With world class diving, fresh catch of the day for
dinner and hammocks to swing in the breeze, it's no wonder most people
make a beeline for this place when they first come to Belize.
Getting
to the island is easy, most people don't spend any time in Belize City
itself and are dropped off across the road from the water taxi jetty, so
all you have to do is walk in, buy your return ticket for $25 (Belizean dollars on this page) and hop on the next boat to Caye Caulker. If you are wanting to go to San Pedro on Ambergis
Caye, there are boats from here too. If you come into the city via the
main bus terminal, then you can either get a taxi to the jetty or walk
15 minutes, it's not a strenuous walk but it depends on how safe you
feel walking there. Personally, I had no problems in the city and even
the guys asking for change were friendly.
Once on the
island, it is pretty easy to just walk around and find some
accommodation that suits your needs: there are dorms, private rooms and
cabins so there is a wealth of options for all budgets.The are really
only three main roads running down the spine of the island, Front,
Middle and Back, with most of the action on Front Road, the same side
you arrive on. There are plenty of restaurants, mini markets and too
many to count tour operators, and at the northern end of the island
there is 'The Split'. This is where the island was cut in two by
dredging to aid the fishermen back in the '50s and then after Hurricane
Hattie ripped through the area in 1961, it was widened and since then
has had to be maintained. There is no beach area per say, but you can
chill out up her, snorkel, drink some beers and chill in the sun on the
decking.
As
mentioned, there are plenty of tour operators with various offers,
these range from scuba diving to snorkeling, from sailing to fishing, as
well as other options. One place that caught my eye was E-Z Boy Tours
which offered a sailing day out with three snorkel stops for $140
(remember, Belizean dollars), this included snorkeling, park entry fee, lunch, ceviche and all you can drink rum punch for the journey back.
The three stops were Hol
Chan Marine Reserve where we saw turtles, rays and a baby shark
(plenty of coral and fish but we're after the big stuff here), the
second stop was Shark Ray Alley which as you can guess from the name was
a site teeming with nurse sharks and sting rays. The guide on the boat
threw loads of sardines in the water to attract them and when we were
all in the water, to our amazement, he just scooped up one of the sharks
and then a ray for us to pet. Brilliant. After here, our final stop was
at Coral Garden but it was pretty lacklustre in comparison to the two
previous sites. In between the second and third stop we had lunch and on
the way back the wind picked up so we were able to sail in whilst
enjoying the delights of happy hour. This was a great day out and
something I would recommend to anyone.
As
well as snorkeling, Belize is also home to some of the world's most
famous dive sites, namely the Blue Hole. This was a big one for me and
one that I was anxious to do on this trip so we booked through a company
called Frenchies,
these guys turned out to be a good company. For $450 you got boat
transport and three dives, kind of pricey but that's what you have to
pay.
It takes two hours to get out to the Blue Hole
and once there you quickly descend down to 130ft/40m where you then swim
between columns, avoid the Caribbean Reef sharks and slowly ascend.
Given the depth, there is only a bottom time of 8 minutes and total dive
time of 25 minutes. When we all got back on the boat, we realised that
one of the girls in the group had narked
and bolted to the top from 40m, the guide tried to stop her but she
panicked and there was nothing anyone could do. We had to get back to
the islands to get her to San Pedro where Belize's only decompression
chamber is located to make sure she was alright, this meant that the
other two dives were cancelled. This was obviously disappointing but it
was good to see that the company dealt with the situation well, it also
helped that they were really cool about telling us about the girl's
expected recovery and they then sorted out refunds for everyone. I would
love to have done more diving, but with time pressing I had no more
time, I was just glad I got the Blue Hole in.
Sadly no
pictures from the Blue Hole (not sure my 5m underwater camera could
handle it) but it was an awesome experience and as it was my first dive
in about a year has made me want to get some more in before I leave,
hopefully up around the Cancun area before I go home if I have time. As
for Caye Caulker, if you are coming into Belize but not sure whether you
should hang around in Belize City for a day (or two) before heading to
the island here is some sage and most certainly bias advise: don't
bother, head straight for the islands, that's where all the fun is
because even when you're not on a tour, there's nothing better than
relaxing in the sun with a beer and the water lapping at your feet..