Wednesday, 22 August 2012

Trekking in Ladakh

Having spent a couple days in Leh acclimatising, it was time to head out into the hills and get some trekking done. With the Annapurna Circuit trek being my big one, a shorter 3 day/ 2 night trek seemed a good idea to whet my appetite for the outdoors.

Decided to just get a guide for the three days, cheap enough and just makes things hassle free, plus there's nothing wrong with being lazy once in a while.

Day 1: Leh (3400m) to Urutze (4150m)


This first day was a breeze, just the thing to get you in the spirit of things and make you think you never lost any of that fitness you ever had. Started with a meandering drive from Leh to Zingchen, a small area where there is the odd guesthouse/ place to get some tea and the start of many treks into the Markha Valley range.

The walk was only about 4 hours the first day, negotiating small streams and gently easing into a walking style that suited you accompanied with the odd stop for photos and all important chai (milk tea) stops. By the time we were warmed up though, we had reached Urutze and that was it for the day. Literally one local's house which is used as a home stay for many trekkers, with dorm rooms on the roof, tents and smaller rooms adjacent to the main sitting room.

Road to Zingchen

Valley through the hills

Pack horses carrying supplies

More rocky terrain

Approaching the homestay at Urutze

Homestay at sunset

Day 2: Urutze (4150m) via Kanda La Pass (4900m) to Skui (3450m)


This was a dog of a day, nothing like the gentle warm up of yesterday. Started with a simple breakfast of butter and jam on chapati, a real stimulant and energy boosting meal. Needless to say the going was tough from the start, unlike the first day where it was a slow and gentle pace with hardly any noticeable increase in altitude, this day was just a brutal assault when we had to go 800m up to reach the pass and then 1500m down to the village of Skui at the end of the valley.

Going up was slow. After about 30 minutes we reached a local encampment where porters and guides were tending to the equipment they were hauling up for their respective clients who had gone on ahead by this stage. From here on it was just up.

Looking back was depressing for the longest time because the tent in the encampment never seemed to shrink in size, whenever you turned around it was just there swamping your view. Eventually, we rounded a corner so we knew progress was being made but still, the track just went up and up with no respite, no flat sections at all.

After what seemed an eternity, four hours, we reached the top of Kanda - La Pass and our max altitude of 4900m. As usual with these passes, there were Buddhist prayer flags and chortens erected by the locals which always look beautiful in the stiff peak breezes.

Going down was horrendous. Not sure if it was the blazing heat from the sun where there was no escape or the sudden change in altitude but my body wasn't having any of it and pretty soon my going was seriously slow, I had a crushing headache and everytime I looked up the end was never nearer. In short I was having a nightmare and was really struggling.

Managed to force some water in me and get a little more hydrated and but even still, by the time we reached Skui I was totally drained and what should have taken around six hours was more like nine hours.

Lying in a bed I was able to get some rest and after a few bowls of soup and Indian staples of dal and rice I was feeling much better. Couple that with a decent enough nights rest and come the morning I was a whole person again.



View from behind as we climbed to the pass

View up to the pass

More paths up
View from the pass

View down the valley from the pass

Skui


Day 3: Skui (3950m) to Leh (3400m) via Chiling (3400m) and the Zanskar River

Having pretty much passed out and gotten some sleep, I was feeling much better about things today. That, and the fact it was a doddle walk to where we were getting picked up to go rafting  as well. The walking was a relaxing pace and there was minimal to no change in altitude during the walk so maintaining a steady rate was easy enough.

From Chilling we were organised into groups for the rafting. It's just about the season for it here and apparently the rapids are Grade 3 so there would be some excitement on the water but nothing too crazy. Grade 4 or 5 rafting somewhere else maybe later.

Once everyone was kitted out and the safety precedures had been shouted out, everyone got in their respective boats and began the 28km journey downstream to the little village of Nimu. Halfway along we had a ten minute break, not sure what for, before finishing off the ride. There was an all you can eat lunch organised at the end and with a belly full of grub after a fun day outdoors I was feeling much better.

More green now at lower altitude

Suddenly the green disappeared again

The barren lanscape we're used to while crossing the river in a crate

Boats on the Zanskar

Posing during our 10 minute break

Shot of the group
There's plenty of trekking available in the Ladakh region with excursions ranging from solo to group, arranged to self planned and all with varying degrees of length and difficulty. Unfortunately, with only a short amount of time planned for the region due to my future Nepal commitments, I only saw a small amount of what Ladakh has to offer. However, with more time I would love to have explored more of this unique and picturesque area.

Tuesday, 21 August 2012

Srinagar to Leh

Travelling through the Kashmir and Ladakh region, from Srinagar to Leh


After just a couple days in Srinagar it was time to move on. With Independence Day around the corner and none of the Jammu/ Kashmiri Indians apparently interested in it, maybe Leh would have some celebrations to see, not to mention a change of scenery and pace.

The road from Srinagar to Leh is only about 430km but takes upward of 17 hours in a jeep, more if you are taking a bus which doesn't appeal considering how bad the roads are meant to be.

Early start, up at the crack of dawn to head to the jeep stand and to make sure a ticket was available, 1800 rupees for the whole journey. Not a lot by standards back home but for India that's a load of cheons.

Had to wait for the jeep to fill before we could set off, eight passengers in total and the driver who turned out to be a bit weak behind the wheel. Around 7am set off down the road and east towards the hills and Leh. The first hour or so was mainly trying to get out of built up areas and make it to the meandering hills of the north of India.

Once on National Highway 1 (not kidding) we were out in the sticks and very soon the only civilisation for miles were random homes and shops to cater for locals and foreigners intent on hiking the remote regions of the north. One such township was Sonmarg, not too far out of Srinagar, and if you stayed here for the night with no intention of hiking, you really would appreciate a good book.

From here the road became a little more interesting. Due to rain there had been flash floods which in turn had created many landslides and also caused several sections of the road to become rather difficult to drive on. As mentioned before, our driver was a bit of a flake and pretty quickly he lost his nerve whilst driving on the slick terrain, not what you want really. Thankfully one of the other passengers had done the route before and drove through the tricky stretch. Ironically enough he was taking a jeep so he could avoid driving as he thought the roads were too dangerous at this time.

'Road' through the hills

Trying to pass each other
Once through the hard part we came to one of many passes that the roads take here in the Kashmir and Ladakh area. The Zo Lija pass was clear today but one of the passengers told everyone how just a couple months ago fifty trucks were stuck in the pass because of snow that had fallen over night. Thankfully things were alright this time round.


Welcome to Ladakh
Once in Ladakh the roads hardly improved but the views became more spectacular as you stay well above 3000m above sea level. Leh, the destination, stands at around 3400m so not too much more height to be gained as the journey continues.

One of the little towns passed is Drass which has the proud distinction of being the second coldest, inhabited town in the world, somewhere in Siberia is apparently the first. As the journey continues and we reach Leh, there are plenty more claims of being the world's best something, from highest petrol station to paintball centre. What a claim.


Leaving the rough patch behind

The jeep in all it's glory






Mountain views
After a few hours, the terrain and views start to change. Since passing the Zo Lija pass, mountains have had that typical grey colour speckled with snow when they're tall enough, trees are in abundance and there is plenty of greenery to be seen for miles around.

However, when you round the main corner of the village of Mulbek, the scenery takes on a completely different turn, with the green and greys replaced by an arid landscape with no sign of life for miles around. These desert views continued for the duration of the journey, with only the ineviatable darkness obscuring the view of this never changing area.

Passing through Mulbek

Views past Mulbek

Arid landscape of Ladakh

Sunset

Once the sun had gone down, a puncture was inevitable. By and large this shouldn't be a problem: jack out, tyre off, new one on, go. Obviously forgot where I was. Only took the best part of an hour to get the tyre off, let alone complete the job.

By now, with Leh and midnight fast approaching, it had been a long and arduous day. Nothing particularly fun about bumping around in the back of a jeep for 17 and odd hours. Arriving in Leh at this time also proved to be a disaster in terms of accommodation, however, by now everyone on the jeep had bonded and one of the older men in the front was only too happy to offer his home up to those who needed it, what a trooper. Head down for the night after a long old trip.