Saturday, 20 October 2012

Canals, Cafes and Coffee

Leiden


With Holland being a small country, getting around on the trains is remarkably easy. From Amsterdam to our first destination, Leiden, some 40 kilometres from Amsterdam and literally no more than 20-25 minutes on the train with barely a wait for it.

Once out of the station and after a quick word in the information office so I could drop off my bigger backpack, we walked around in the direction of the town's sights and no doubt a few cafe stops for coffee, beers or whatever else tickled our fancy.

Soon came upon a canal system where there was a square and I saw my first windmill in Holland, got to love the stereotypes. Followed the main canal for a bit before heading down 'Rapenburg' and having  a couple coffees along the canal whilst people watching in the sunshine.

Once on the move again, we made our way through the town seeing the main attractions: 'Pieterskerk' or St. Peter's church which is a big old church along Kloksteeg, the Burcht which  translates to something like castle ruins which is what they are, affording decent views of the surrounding area  and then onto 'Hooglandsekerk' which means Highlands church.

After seeing the sights and wandering the picturesque narrow roads and canals it was time for yet another pitstop at a cafe for some refreshments on a bridge overlooking the main canal street before heading onto Delft where we'd be staying overnight.

My first windmill

View from within the Burcht

Pieterskerk

Hooglandsekerk

 Delft


Another short train trip brought us to Delft; birthplace of the famous painter Johannes Vermeer, The Girl with the Pearl Earring being one of his works, home of Delft blue pottery and to the New Church which is the burial ground of the Dutch royal family, starting with William of Orange himself.

We arrived in the early afternoon and left just about enough time to roam around the beautiful main square and get our bearings in relation to where the churches of note were for the following morning. With most things closing, this was as good a time as any to have a peaceful night in, but not before some traditional pea soup served with rye bread and bacon, delicious.

As we were heading to Tim's hometown the following day, an early start was required to fit in everything in Delft. It's only a small town which makes this relatively easy and no need for any transportation, everything is within walking distance.

First stop was the main square, home to the city hall and the impressive New Church with it's clock tower which is some 108m tall, the second tallest in the country. We'll get onto the tallest in a minute. The clock tower offers 360 degree panoramic views of the town and perhaps on a seriously clear day you could see all the way to The Hague or Rotterdam, maybe.

The church  is cavernous to say the least, with the tomb of William of Orange dominating the front and the right hand side dedicated to educating the masses on the origins and history of the Dutch royal family with plenty of glass-housed scripts and pictures written out in Dutch and English.

The actual tombs are beneath the church and off limits to visitors so you have to make do with just walking the perimeter of the church, sitting down to enjoy the silence, pray or just take in the scenes of others unfolding around you.

Beyond the square is the Old Church where Vermeer is actually buried. Situated opposite is the Prince's Court, where William of Orange was actually murdered in 1584. Just a two minute walk from the main square brings you to 'Beestenmarkt'. This used to be an animal market back in the day but now is a beautiful little square where all the restaurants around it have their outdoor seating, a real treat in summer I imagine.

New Church

Dinner

View of the City Hall from the clock tower

View of the Old Church

Utrecht 


Just before making it to Loo, we managed to have a couple hours in Utrecht as it lies between Loo and Delft. Just a quick stop really, no more time than to see the tallest church tower in Holland, the Dam Tower, measuring 112.23m precisely we were told. After this we checked out a cosy little alley of cafes called 'Wed' and proceeded to people watch, always fun, over a few beers until it was time to call time on my town hopping and settle in Loo for a few days.

Dam Tower

Old student building
Next stop, Loo, for a break from moving around and a cycle ride around the countryside.




Friday, 19 October 2012

Amsterdam

Having been home for a couple weeks it was only a matter of time before I fancied a little trip away in Europe, having never been to any of the usual hotspots famous for European travel.
Therefore, I decdied to head to Holland to see my mate Tim who I travelled with in Mongolia and Chin.

A cheeky flight over the channel brought me to Schipol International Airport and a day of festivities in the Dutch capital could begin, starting with a leisurely walk around a couple of the main squares and canals before our tour around the Heineken brewery.

Just a short walk away from the Central train station is the Dam Square. Countless little roads lead to it and it is surrounded by the city hall, Madame Tussauds, New Church and the Royal Palace. The usual drill of buskers but no guitars here, all cellos and other woodwind instruments, must be in Europe. Oh, and pigeons that will eat absolutely anything.

Central Station

Dam Square

Madame Tussauds in the background

Royal Palace


Hopped on to a tram after ambling around and made our way to the Heineken brewery. It's a big old building where they only make a fracton of the booze they used to, the main brewery is a little further away, this one is more to show you how the magic happens.

Having never been on a brewery tour (don't worry, I'll get to the Guniess factory one day) I have nothing to compare it to  but it was an enjoyable experience. Saw how the beer was made, got samples and a couple beers at the end for my troubles. My only problem is these small continental glasses, no pint glasses anywhere.



Outside the brewery


Canal ride that came with admission prie for brewery

Over the next couple days, time was generally spent chilling out in the brown cafes in the Jordaan area, enjoying a drink and the refreshing aroma of classic Dutch vegetables, whilst intermittently wandering around  and taking in the beauty of the canal system, dominated by the thee main ones: Gentlemen's, Emperor's and Prince's.

Whenever a break was needed, with all the squares of Amsterdam there was never far to go to sit down for a coffee or a beer when the urge arose. By and large it was very relaxing and the weather couldn't have been better.

Down from the 'Konings Plein' (another square) we headed past the Albert Cuyp market, famous for selling flowers, visited the 'Bejinhof' which is the only remaining courtyard in Amsterdam, set with tradional housing with only female residents, had coffee by 'Rembrandt Plein' and posed on the Museum Square with and on the 'I Amsterdam' sign, custom built for visitors pleasure.

As mentioned in previous posts, I don't to museums, however, we thought we'd check out the Van Gogh museum since it was close to the 'I Amsterdam' sign, and, we were in Amsterdam after all. As it happens, the musems had moved location, guess I'l have to go next time.

Begijnhof

Albert Cuyp market

Museum Square

Interior of a typical brown cafe


Now as most people are aware, Amsterdam has plenty of culture, both day and night, and as the sun set it seemed only appropriate to check out the dark side of Amsterdam and walk around the Wallen area, also known as the Red Light District.

Having never been before, I had all sorts of images in my head, but aside fromvhaving women posing in windows in next to nothing, I'm not sure what the fuss is about. Wasn't that bad considering what I've heard other people say. I even saw people taking tour groups around the area, not sure why you would bother when you can just amble around the area on your own steam.

Most of the curtains were closed when we got there, busy start to the evening it would seem, but you get the general jist as you walk around. Hearing people haggling a price is common enough and it's always fun to see a half dressed woman shooing a group of Japanese tourists away as they probably scare away punters lurking nearby waiting for an opportune moment to get inside from the cold.

A trip to the sex museum, okay so I went to one museum I suppose, concluded  my time in Amsterdam. Basically it was a three storey building dedicated to porn and sex. Just the kind of place you want to take you kids after dinner, needless to say, I think it was adults only.

Red Light District

Sex show anyone?

View of the Old Church
Of course, you could spend days in Amsterdam visiting the sights and chilling out in cafes and not even come close to being bored, but time being of the essense it was time to move on to some of the smaller towns in Western Holland.