Showing posts with label cycling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cycling. Show all posts

Monday, 15 April 2013

World's Most Dangerous Road by bike, La Paz to Corioco, Bolivia

Known as the 'Road of Death' and dubbed the most dangerous road in the world, the Yungas Road  leads from La Paz to Corioco, and for 70 or so breathtaking kilometres you can cycle downhill and let gravity do all (most) of the work.

From La Paz, there are several tour companies who offer trips up to the mountains for you to free wheel down at break neck speeds and varying conditions. You can shop around but the best thing to do here is either to go on the recommendation of other travellers who have done it and didn't get into any bother, or to just trust your gut.

The tour starts with hotel pick up (depending on the tour agency you use) and then you drive up to La Cumbre, 4700m above sea level, the start of the trip. Here, you leave the minivans and everyone is given a jacket, knee and elbow pads and a helmet, obviously you get a bike too. After safety instructions where the same thing is repeated for quite some time, essentially the guides kindly asking you not to get yourselves killed, you start off down the hill.

At this stage, the road is paved but at this elevation the weather can be erratic at best and on this day it was tearing down with rain and with no mud guards on my bike (decent tread and brakes were my only pre-requisite) it wasn't long before the standing water was blinding me and I couldn't see a thing. Pretty soon you reach ridiculous speeds and overtake all the slow moving traffic, hoping there isn't another truck or bus coming around the next corner.

After a drop of about 1600m, there is a check point where a mandatory fee is required before carrying on. At this stage, some tour companies load the bikes and drive the next section as it is pretty hilly and at 3000m oxygen is pretty scarce when cycling, mercifully the company I was with did this rather than having to cycle uphill, heaven forbid.

Once the road is basically all downhill again, the bikes are offloaded and with the assistance of gravity, the group takes off down the hill again. There are various stops along the way to get the group together again, to take advantage of photo opportunities and as you head down into the valley, all those layers at the top are very unnecessary and various stops are needed just to de-layer. Come the end of the tour, everyone is just in T-shirt and whatever pants they have on as around 1100m it is much warmer.

Depending on the tour, there is an all you can eat spread waiting for you at the bottom and a shower, this you will need as the road is rocky, then sandy, then wet and so at the bottom you really are covered in muck from head to toe. However, the adrenaline is still pumping as you recall all those hairy turns with sheer cliffs and all the crosses that act as a reminder that this is a dangerous road where deaths happen often enough. Recent years have seen a decline in these as there is a new road which most trucks and buses use now so the road is now basically for the use of cycling down. An awesome experience which can be taken as slowly or as quickly as you like, just make sure your brakes work and you are holding on tight.

Check point

Snacks if you so wish


Start of the 'dangerous' section








Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Bobbing in for a cheeky German pint

As the weather was so perfect, heading out for a day on the bicycles seemed like a great shout. Armed with packed lunch and typical Dutch brakes in the wrong place (you have to pedal backwards to stop) we set off along the dike running parallel to the Rhine with the intention of cycling into Germany for a cheeky pint before coming home.

Luckily Tim lives right by the border so taking the scenie route is only about 20km, which we covered in reasonable time while moving at a leisurely pace. Obligatory stops for photos and food breaks and the occasional rest at one of the many signs in the Dutch countryside specifically designed for cyclists. There are so many cycle routes here with so many signs it must be impossible to get lost.

Housing along the dike

One of many roads catered for small vehicles and bikes
Local windmill



Approaching the border, and with the brilliant blue skies, we decided to stop off and get an ice cream. The housing had become decidedly less Dutch and the road became less cycle friendly until the very moment you cross the border. At this instant, the cycle lanes disappear and you know you're in Germany.

The nearest town, Elten, was just round the corner. A quaint little village really with a small square with a few cafes surrounding it on one end and a couple pubs on the other. Made a beeline for the pubs but to our dismay and surprise they were all shut. Feeling we weren't going to get our pint we headed into the local bakery for some German cheesecake, wow. So creamy, nothing like the usual stuff I've had before.

We were about to head to our bikes and set off but we were drawn to the pubs again, the doors were open now on all of them and as we looked at our watches we realised that the pubs must open at 4pm. Testing out this theory we went to the closest one and walked into be greeted by a stout looking fellow. Thankfully Tim speaks German too so within minutes we were outside with our big 500ml glasses enjoying the glorious sunshine.



Crossing the border

Yes, cake
Elten
More German refreshments

Once satiated, we headed back in a different direction and enjoyed another couple beers at a local restaurant in Zevenaar, a popular town for students. During the daytime, the square acts as host to all those after coffee, but as the evening draws on, the chairs and tables are put away and people just drink and dance outside. Might have to come back this way again I think.

With the sun gone and the darkness setting in, more beers would have been a disaster, especially as I was still not quite used to my enormous bike. Everyone here has such long legs. Another detour brought us home a different way, with the smell of homemade food to welcome us as we walked in the house. What a treat.